The Golden Temple, Amritsar

Amritsar Map

The Golden Temple, located in the city of Amritsar in the state of Punjab, is a place of great beauty and sublime peacefulness. Originally a small lake in a quiet forest, the site has been a meditation retreat for wandering mendicants and sages since antiquity. The Buddha is known to have spent time at this place in contemplation. Two thousand years after Buddha's time, another philosopher-saint came to live and meditate by the peaceful lake. This was Guru Nanak (1469-1539), the founder of the Sikh religion. After the passing away of Guru Nanak, his disciples continued to frequent the site and over the centuries it became the primary sacred shrine of the Sikhs. The lake was enlarged and structurally contained during the leadership of the fourth Sikh Guru (Ram Dass, 1574-1581) and during the leadership of the fifth Guru (Arjan, 1581-1606), the Hari Mandir, or Temple of God, was built. From the early 1600s to the mid-1700s, the sixth through tenth Sikh Gurus constantly defended their religion and temple against Muslim armies. On numerous occasions, the temple was destroyed by the Muslims, and each time was rebuilt more beautifully by the Sikhs. From 1767 onwards, the Sikhs became strong enough militarily to repulse invaders. Peace returned to the Hari Mandir.

Hari Mandir, Amritsar, India

The temple's architecture draws on Hindu and Muslim artistic styles yet represents a unique coevolution. During the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780-1839), Hari Mandir was richly ornamented with marble sculptures, golden gilding, and large quantities of precious stones. Within the sanctuary, on a jewel-studded platform, lies the Guru Granth Sahib, the sacred scripture of the Sikhs. This scripture is a collection of devotional poems, prayers, and hymns composed by the ten Sikh gurus and various Muslim and Hindu saints. 

From early morning to evening, these hymns are chanted to accompany flutes, drums, and stringed instruments. Echoing across the lake, the beautiful music induces a serene trance in the pilgrims strolling around the marble concourse encircling the pool and temple. An underground spring feeds the sacred lake, and throughout the day and night, pilgrims immerse themselves in the water, a symbolic cleansing of the soul rather than an actual bathing of the body. Next to the temple complex are enormous pilgrims' dormitories and dining halls where all persons, irrespective of race, religion, or gender, are lodged and fed for free.

Amritsar, the name of the ancient lake, the temple complex, and the surrounding city, means "pool of ambrosial nectar." Looking deeply into the origins of the word Amrit, we find that it indicates a drink of the gods. This rare and magical substance catalyzes euphoric states of consciousness and spiritual enlightenment. With this word, we see a particular place's spirit, power, or energetic character encoded as a geographical name. The myth is not just a fairy tale. It reveals itself as a coded metaphor if we have the knowledge to read the code: Amritsar's waters flowing into the Hari Mandir lake were long ago - and remain today - a bringer of peacefulness.

Sikh pilgrims at the Golden Temple, Amritsar, India
Golden Temple Aerial View by Helicopter, Photograph by Grenade Singh
Martin Gray

Martin Gray is a cultural anthropologist, writer and photographer specializing in the study of pilgrimage traditions and sacred sites around the world. During a 40 year period he has visited more than 2000 pilgrimage places in 165 countries. The World Pilgrimage Guide at sacredsites.com is the most comprehensive source of information on this subject.