Otuzco, Motupe and the Cross of Chalpon
Northern Peru's primary Christian pilgrimage places are in the towns of Ayabaca, Otuzco, and Motupe. Ayabaca has a much-venerated image of Christ; Otuzco is the site of a Marian apparition; and Motupe has the miraculous cross of Chalpon in a small cave far up a remote valley. Each of these sites reveals significant pagan influences, and few non-Peruvians venture into these remote mountain regions.
Otuzco, a small town at 8600 feet above sea level, has one of the most celebrated pilgrimage festivals in the country. The Fiesta de la Virgen de la Puerta festival takes place each year on December 15. At this time, the normally quiet town hosts thousands of pilgrims who have traveled from Peru and Ecuador. Only local folk were around when I visited Otuzco months before its pilgrimage fair. Boisterous children played makeshift soccer in front of the church, young lovers kissed in the gardens, and older men fell asleep while praying in the sanctuary. There is an odd sort of museum next door to the church. A few dozen large glass cases display hundreds of skillfully crafted gowns, these being part of the wardrobe used to dress the five-foot-tall statue of Mary. Pilgrims donated the gowns as visible expressions of prayers or thanks for prayers that have been answered. In other glass cases surrounding the ornate gowns were thousands of pieces of jewelry donated by the pilgrims to further adorn the miracle-causing statue. The sanctuary of Otuzco is known to be a healing place, and its power is especially beneficial for young children.
The small town of Motupe, located 49 miles (79 kilometers) north of Chiclayo in the Lambayeque region of Peru, is famous for its cave shrine of the Cruz de Chalpon (the Cross of Chalpon). Throughout the year, many thousands of pilgrims visit the shrine, which is located in the mountains above the town.
The tradition of the Cross of Chalpon began in 1850 when a hermit priest named Padre Juan lived in an isolated area of the mountains near Motupe. While in the mountains, Padre Juan lived in different caves and carved large wooden crosses, which he used in his worship. He occasionally came to Motupe, where the local peasants greatly respected him. Later in his life, Padre Juan moved away, became ill, and finally passed away in Lima. His corpse, which, according to legend, appeared in different places, was sent to Rome, and he was eventually canonized.
For some years, the location of the cave where Padre Juan had lived and worshipped was lost. In 1868, a cataclysm was predicted, and the villagers of Motupe began to search for it in hopes of obtaining protection. On August 15, Jose Mercedes Anteparra found the cave and the cross of Chalpon. The cross was carried to the village, where the local peasants received it joyfully. After some time, the cross was returned to the cave. Miracles began to occur when people viewed the cross, and over time, an ever-increasing number of pilgrims came to visit the cave.
Each year, on August 5, there is a pilgrimage festival in which devotees carry the Cross of Chalpon from the cave to the village of Motupe. Many of the pilgrims attending the festival walk barefoot from all over Peru. During the festival, there are fireworks displays and exhibitions of holy icons. Food stalls are set up around the central plaza and along the pathway leading to the cave shrine. Open throughout the day, these stalls offer a selection of regional dishes, water, and beer, as well as many items of a religious nature, such as figurines, candles, and other mementos. The pilgrimage festival is a wonderful opportunity to view the mix of Indian and Christian customs incorporated into a local religious ceremony.
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Martin Gray is a cultural anthropologist, writer and photographer specializing in the study of pilgrimage traditions and sacred sites around the world. During a 40 year period he has visited more than 2000 pilgrimage places in 165 countries. The World Pilgrimage Guide at sacredsites.com is the most comprehensive source of information on this subject.